Hi, I'm in the process of having some significant building work done on my home, and am very tempted to integrate the webbrick technology into this work.

I hope you'll forgive some probably silly questions, and my apologies if this isn't the most appropriate place to post these.
My intent here is to try and get enough info so that I can get a webbrick up and running, controlling a couple of (dummy) lighting circuits, and wired up to an IP network and a couple of switches. I'd like to get that running as an exercise to better understand the system, before scaring the daylights out of my electrician with grand plans for full-scale integration into my home! Any help or advice is hugely appreciated.

So, my questions...

The old o2m8 website lists two power supplies in it's shop section – the 12V P30-12, and the 15V P30-15. I primarily plan to use webbricks for lighting control via a dimmer pack (e.g. the Soundlabs 4 channel dimmer often mentioned on this site).

What factors determine which power supply should be chosen – would they both work?

Is the old o2m8 website shop the appropriate place to go to get hold of the kit (the power supplies, webbrick, etc)? The new site doesn't appear to have a working equivalent yet.

I've initially bought a Soundlabs dimmer with the intention of experimenting, though admittedly I've not done much, as I've not splashed out on a webbrick yet.
Where can I get appropriate connectors to connect the webbrick's contacts into the 10V analogue inputs on the Soundlabs dimmer. Is there anything else I need?

What's the recommendation on dimmer packs? The Soundlabs dimmer seems often mentioned, but a post in January mentioned problems, and suggested the NJD 10000 dimmer pack as an alternative. Is that a general recommendation now?

Any advice on sourcing basics like DIN rails, enclosures, etc?

Thanks in advance for any advice.

The 12v PSU will power a WebBrick Controller, whereas the 15v PSU can be adjusted down to the level at which a battery will re-charge, and will run a number of WebBrick Controllers at the same time. This way, the power to the home can fail, then the WebBrick Controllers (and other kit) can keep running of your battery. In my house, I have a 35Ah battery, which keeps my whole system and emergency LED lights running all day!

About purchasing things, no, the Shop isn't running. There were too many variables, so it's better just to email guy.reece@webbricksystems.com - Guy'll introduce you to some Accredited Installers, and he & they can talk you through recommendations.

-- thanks, Alistair

Glyn

These days I'd choose the DP10000Mk2 over the Soundlab every time:

    a) they are better with inductive loads (electronic transformers)

    b) they take up less space

    c) they don't need connectors (for the soundlabs maplin do the connectors)

You can get DIN rail and enclosures from any Electrical Wholesaler -- choose your favorite from:

      GFE, City Electrical Factors (CEF), Newey & Eyre, Wilts, Edmunsons

I wouldn't go to Farnell or RS for the basic -- to expensive, but these companies are useful for more specialised components.
 

The transformer I bought from O2M8 is such that the 240V AC is live on external screws (recessed, but accessible by a screwdriver)

I'd prefer something more protected.

The power required for the Webbricks is described as 12V. 

The only >=2A  PSUs in my local Maplin are 13.8V regulated (I have four Webbricks)

The original transformer is marked 15V, but I believe voltage falls as one draws current.

On a regulated supply the voltage will presumably not drop.

Is it safe to use a 13.8V regulated PSU for Webbricks? 

Richard

  WebBricks will run happily from 12.6 - 16V.

  The original transformer is good for powering WebBricks via an URPS (ultra reliable power supply) which would float charge a SLA (sealed lead acid battery).

 WebBricks consume between 45-55mA on their own.  Obviously you have to add the current of what they drive.

 The Maplin wall warts will work, and be safe, in fact one of our oldest installations uses these.

 I wouldn't use them for the following reasons:

      a)  Brownout performance, no capactive reserve

      b) Green efficacy - a decent switch mode power supply is much better

      c) Heat
 

We now sell Puls power supplies, which we are *very* happy with, they are are small and run very cool and have snap type closed connections.  They aren't a cheap initial purchase but fine value in the longer term.  You an do cunning things with them as well.

Regards

Andy